KV-85 (August to October 1943)

There were few variations among the 148 series production KV-85s, and the few minor changes introduced during the production run are noted in the text below.  At the time of writing, Eastern Express kit #35102 is the only available plastic kit of the KV-85 in 1/35 scale, so there is little choice in the basis for your model.  Thankfully the Eastern Express kit is dimensionally accurate, with one significant exception.  However, its detail is a little crude compared to the more recent offerings from Trumpeter.  With care and attention though, it can be made into an accurate and detailed model.

The kit shares many common components with kit #35100 so many of the comments made for the KV-1S recipe are equally applicable here.

In step 1, you must assemble the hull from individual parts rather than a 'tub' which means you need to take care that everything lines up correctly and the angles of the hull are square.

The lower rear hull (part 4B) includes locating points for trapezoidal mounting plates which in turn mounted the rear towing eyes.  These mounting plates were replaced by the circular pattern in the summer of 1942, and all KV-1S hulls including those used for the SU-152 and KV-85 carried the round plates.  Sand away the integrally molded locating points, since you will replace the mounting plates themselves in step 4.

The suspension swing arms (parts 14A) are the late flat pattern seen on SU-152 and KV-85 hulls in the late summer and fall of 1942, but lack the raised central boss in the center of each torsion bar cap.  This omission is difficult to see after the model is weathered, but you can add the bosses from 1mm discs of thin sheet styrene if you wish.

In step 2, the convex cover over the sprocket hub (part 12A) features the correct 8 bolts but also has a raised lip around its edge which should be removed.

In step 3, take care to use the correct road wheels (parts 7A and 8A).  The kit provides two types of road wheels.  Parts 5A and 6A represent the wheels with larger lightening holes and were less common on the SU-152 but check your references for the specific vehicle you are modeling.

Note that on some kits I have examined, the lightening holes were almost completely filled in - they were invisible from the outside of each wheel half and were only barely visible on the inner sides.  In such cases, use a drill bit and file to open up the holes.

In step 4, cut away the mounting plates for the front and rear towing eyes (parts 17A) and replace them with discs of 0.8mm styrene sheet, 4mm in diameter.  Use the towing eyes themselves from parts 17A, and add the shackles (parts 18A).

The kit tracks are molded in vinyl and represent the correct split link pattern fitted to series production KV-85s.  They are, however, quite stiff and it will be difficult to represent the characteristic sag of the KV series tracks.  I recommend replacing them with after-market items.  Friulmodel's ATL-54, ModelKasten's SK14 and WWII Productions' 35038 all provide suitable replacements.

In step 5, you must perform some surgery on the upper hull.  The kit uses the same upper hull as the KV-1S kit, which means that the turret ring is set too far to the rear.  The turret ring opening must be moved forward by 3mm.  The simplest way to do this is to merely expand the aperture at the front end by 3mm and allow the larger turret to cover the 'extra space' at the rear.

The kit is also missing the armor fillets atop the hull that protected the turret ring.  Add these from 2mm x 2mm square section styrene, using Figure 42 on page 103 of KV - Technical History and Variants as a guide.

The crescent-shaped fillets on the upper hull sides that widen the hull for the larger turret ring must be relocated forward to match the repositioned turret.

The radiator intake screens are molded integrally with the upper hull, and include longitudinal rods covering the mesh.  Photographs suggest that these rods were only fitted to trials vehicles.  You should cut away the screens and replace them with suitable aftermarket items.  The simplest way to do this with the least risk to surrounding bolt detail is to drill vertically through the screens at the corners, join up the holes with a sharp blade or scriber, then carefully remove the remaining raised detail taking care to preserve the surrounding bolts.  Eduard TP088 and TP089 both provide correct replacement screens and offer the simplest and cheapest way to replace the kit parts.

The kit includes the engine access hatch from the KV-1S, but the KV-85 featured a slightly modified hatch with a reshaped dome to provide additional clearance for the turret bustle.  Modelling Artisan Mori provides the correct hatch as set MRP05.

Note that there is some conjecture about whether the hatch was actually modified or not.  I base the above assertion on photos of the vehicle captured by German forces in southern Ukraine in November 1943, which appear to show the dome being shallower on its forward side.

In step 6, the headlamp and siren are missing their attachment brackets.  You should add these from thin brass strip or from any of the available update sets.

The exhausts (parts 11B and 12B) are the early pattern fitted to all KV series vehicles until the summer of 1943. However, photographs suggest that most if not all KV-85s carried the shorter, armored exhausts introduced in the summer of 1943.  Moskit #3529 provides the correct exhausts.

Omit the lifting rings (parts 28A).  These were rarely seen on vehicles in service.

In step 7, assemble the upper and lower turret halves (parts 1F and 2F) but do not be too careful about eliminating the seam.  The real turret featured a prominent casting seam at the point where the two kit parts join.

Attach the rear-facing machine gun fairing (part 6F) and blend it into the main turret shell with putty.

Assemble the gun mount (parts 3F, 4F and 5F) but when attaching them to the turret, DO NOT fill the seam between part 3F and the main turret shell.  The gun mount was bolted to the turret casting, and there was typically a visible join line.

The gunner's periscopic sight (part 13F) is too squat in shape.  If you have a replacement from a Trumpeter kit, use that part instead.

The commander's cupola is molded in two parts.  The lower part is integral with the upper turret half (part 1F) and the upper part is separate (part 16F).  Fill and sand the seam between the upper and lower halves, taking care to preserve the vision slits.  Simulate the weld beads attaching the cupola to the turret using putty or styrene rod softened with liquid cement.

The loader's hatch (part 17F) lacks the latch bolts on its outer face.  Add these by drilling holes and filling them with short lengths of styrene rod using the drawing on page 228 of KV - Technical History and Variants as a guide.

Thin down the front edge of the rain guard (part 6F) with careful sanding.

The turret hand rails (parts 24F) were actually fabicated from hollow steel tube and should have their ends drilled.  They represent the symmetrical configuration seen on most series production KV-85s.  A few early production examples carried asymmetrical hand rails, and you can modify the kit parts if you wish using the drawing on page 355 of KV - Technical History and Variants as a guide.

The kit gun barrel is molded as a single piece with a separate end cap so you do not need to drill out the muzzle.  However, the kit benefits greatly from an after-market barrel.  Armorscale B35-007 and Model Point 35043 offer suitable replacements.

The kit lacks the hand rails on the upper hull sides, even though step 9 of the instructions shows them in place.  You must add these hand rails from styrene rod.

In step 8, you must construct the tow cables using the cast ends (parts 19A) supplied in the kit, along with thread or braided wire.  No thread or wire is provided in the kit.  You can use your own wire, or use Eureka XXL's item 3509 or Karaya TCR007.

In step 9 of the instructions, BEFORE mounting the fuel tanks to the fenders, add the tool box (part 17B) to the inner edge of the number 7 position on the left-hand fender as shown in the drawing on page 355 of of KV - Technical History and Variants.

Step 9 shows the fuel tanks mounted centrally on the fenders.  However, they should be mounted at the outer edges of the fenders as shown in the drawing on page 355 of of KV - Technical History and Variants.

The kit lacks the spare track links on the number 5 and 6 fender positions.  If you are using an after-market track set, you should have sufficient spare links to add the single link on each fender.  You must make your own brackets from styrene strip.

By following these steps, you will build an accurate representation of a series production KV-85.